Col du Plan du Lac

Distance: 22.5 miles. Elevation: 4089 ft.

This was my third ride—in as many days—from my base in Termignon. Today’s climb to Col du Plan du Lac was the only one that began right on the doorstep. Being a fairly short outing, I didn’t set off until around midday, with the temperature already in the low 30s°C. The heat abated as I climbed, falling to the low 20s°C by the top—over 1,000 metres higher—which closely matches the rule of thumb of a 1°C drop for every 100 m gained.

The ride began with the now-familiar steep ramp out of Termignon, but this time I turned off—or rather carried straight on—at the first switchback, following the D126 towards Bellecombe and Plan du Lac. After initial views to the left across the valley of the Doron de Termignon, the road enters the forest for a four-mile section averaging 8.5%, with some stretches steeper still.

The bornes kilometriques on this climb are a different design to those on yesterday’s ride; the gradient figure is displayed in very small text at the bottom of the sign — presumably so you don’t get freaked out by the high numbers! They’re difficult to read as you ride past.

As the road clears the forest, it crosses the Ruisseau des Sallanches and doubles back on itself up the other side of the valley, now among pasture. After a short downhill dip the gradient picks up again for the last three miles to the col, the road twisting its way through the now tree-less landscape at a more palatable 7.5%.

A car passed every now and again — it was a Saturday after all. A lorry crawled slowly up the steep, twisty road, delivering sheep to higher pastures for the summer. Lucky sheep: they get a free lift while I was left to slog my way up there.

Old stone buildings dotted the landscape, as I climbed higher.

Eventually I reached the car park for the Auberge de Bellecombe, just before which the sheep were being poured from the lorry, to enjoy their new grazing.  Just beyond there the road is closed to all non-authorised motorised vehicles, but it’s still a fairly decent tarmac surface all the way to the lake and beyond, the gradient easing towards the top..

I reached the top of the ride at 2,370 metres, but carried on beyond the lake through rock-strewn pasture, past the Refuge du Plan du Lac and down towards the next valley. I saw quite a few marmots along that stretch.

I descended for nearly two miles before stopping to take in the view along the valley spread out before me.

The view along Le vallon de La Rocheure was captivating. A track meandered into the distance, climbing towards the glaciers at the head of the valley. Scattered buildings petered out further up as lush green gave way to grey rock and white snow in the distance.

I waited for the sun to shine on the whole valley so I could get a decent shot with my proper camera, but was frustrated that it didn’t.  In fact it got cloudier still. So all I got was that poor quality image above from my action cam.

I stayed there for about 30 mins during which I ate my sandwich, took some timelapse videos on my action cam and tried to encourage a marmot out of his burrow for a photo.

Standing there I wondered where the valley went to my left. It was hidden behind rocks. I found out after the ride that it joins another valley (Vallon de la Leisse) at Entre-Deux-Eaux where the two rivers merge at a small dam, which forms the head of the Doron de Termignon, the river that my route here had been following for most of its course.  I could have ridden down there had I known. It would have involved a steep 1.5 mile descent to the dam — on tarmac as far as I can tell. That was another missed opportunity. It’s frustrating to only discover things like that after the ride!

So I made my way up the steep climb back to the lake. The scenery was wild and beautiful. It’s unusual to be able to get to remote valleys and lakes like this on a road bike — with the added bonus of no traffic.

The ride back down from the lake was stunning. I kept stopping for photos. Traffic was virtually non-existent.

Temperature was in the high 20’s°C so there was no need for a rain jacket. The sky was quite grey over the distant mountains but I think it was probably just the hazy air making it seem more ominous than it was.

Just before the steep forest section there were wonderful views down to Termignon and along the Maurienne Valley.

Arriving back at Termignon for the third day in a row, it was a nice familiar feeling, like I was coming home. That often happens when I do several rides from the same base.

So it had been yet another amazing ride from the Maurienne Valley, featuring wild mountain scenery, flowers, a lake, cows, some sheep and plenty of marmots. So good..

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